1.
Hay – A good quality should
always be available. “Free Feed” your hay.
2. Water – Provide fresh, clean water on a daily basis. Goats will not
drink stagnant, poor quality water. In winter, warm water is appreciated, but not required.
3. Grain –
a. Doe: 1 to 2 cups
a day, divided equally between two feedings (morning and night). Pregnant does, during the last four weeks (and
lactating does) should have their grain ration doubled.
b. Buck
(or Wether):
Do NOT overfeed. It is recommended that bucks not receive more than ½ to 1 cup a day, divided equally
between two feedings (morning and night).
4. Trace Minerals – A trace mineral block should always be available for your goat to get the
minerals necessary to promote its health. Consult with your local extension agent or veterinarian to determine
the minerals necessary to promote the greatest health of your herd.
5. Worming – You should worm your goat(s) at least 3 to 4 times per year. It
is recommended that you worm in the last month of pregnancy and again just before or right after kidding to further protect
the kids. However, ensure that the wormer is safe for pregnant does.
6. Hoof Trimming – Hoof trimming should take place every 4 to 6 weeks, but more often if necessary.
Untrimmed or poorly trimmed hooves cause the goat great discomfort and can lead to serious lameness, foot rot, or splayed
toes. Simply trimming the hooves on a regular basis (monthly) can keep your goat’s feet healthy.
7. Housing – Should be clean, dry and draft free…with a stall available a week
or so before kidding. A simple 3-sided shelter should be sufficient if it provides protection from sun, rain
and wind. But no matter what type of shelter you decide on, it should be kept clean and dry to keep your goats
happy and healthy. Goats also love to climb and jump, and appreciate “toys” in their pasture.
Items such as large rocks, picnic table, or a constructed platform that encourages them to climb helps build muscle
and encourages proper leg movement.
8.
Fencing – Fencing should be from
4 to 6 feet high, and strong enough to protect the goats from predators trying to get in. I’ve found the
48” Hog wire to be perfect for our farm. Tethering a goat outside of their fencing is very dangerous
for the goat as it makes them more susceptible to predators by limiting their escape.
9. Vaccinations – The following vaccination schedule is provided as a reference, however,
you should always consult with your veterinarian to determine the best program for your specific herd.
a. Kids.
i. Birth. 1 dose of Tetanus
Antitoxin (1500 units)…antitoxin remains in the body for approximately
2 weeks.
ii. 5-6 weeks. 1 dose of Clostridium Perfringens C&D vaccine and 1 dose of Tetanus
Toxoid (these two vaccines are also available in a combined vaccine commonly referred
to as “CDT”).
iii. 9-10 weeks. 1 dose of Clostridium
Perfringens C&D vaccine and 1 dose of Tetanus Toxoid
(or one dose of CDT)
b. Pregnant
Does.
Vaccinate your pregnant doe with one dose of the CDT vaccination
3-4 weeks prior to kidding to allow a transfer of antibodies to the
kids through her colostrum.
c. Adults. – Bucks and Does should
receive 1 dose of the CDT Booster on an annual
basis. We generally booster our herd in January or February.
d. ATTENTION:
Any
medication given to an animal by injection has the potential to cause
an “anaphylactic” reaction (allergic reaction) to the vaccination.
As such, it is critical that you monitor your goat for a period of 10-15 minutes, watching for symptoms of a reaction
(e.g. restlessness, difficulty breathing, loss of muscle function, seizures, etc.). If a reaction does occur,
take your goat to the nearest veterinarian IMMEDIATELY as this is a medical
emergency! Epinephrine is
the drug used to counteract an “anaphylactic” reaction.
If you have epinephrine, give ¼ cc to kids and ½
cc to adult goats subcutaneously (under the skin) and follow up by taking the goat to the nearest veterinarian
